The sword is, as it were, consecrated to God; and the art of war becomes a part of our religion.” –Samuel Davies

Saturday, September 29, 2012

Joseph Doddridge on Backcountry Foodways

   In keeping with the theme of my last post, I decided to take a look at Joseph Doddridge’s perspective on the backcountry culture of his day.  Here is how Doddridge describes the culinary life of the frontier settlers.


       The furniture for the table, for several years after the settlement of this country, consisted of a few pewter dishes, plates and spoons; but mostly of wooden bowls, trenchers and noggins.  If these last were scarce, gourds and hard shelled squashes made up the deficiency.  The iron pots, knives and forks, were brought from the east side of the mountains along with the salt and iron on pack horses. These articles of furniture corresponded very well with the articles of diet on which they were employed.  "Hog and hominy" were proverbial for the dish of which they were the component parts.  Johnny cake and pone were at the outset of the settlements of the country the only forms of bread in use for breakfast and dinner.  At supper, milk and mush was the standard dish.  When milk was not plenty, which was often the case, owing to the scarcity of cattle, or the want of proper pasture for them, the substantial dish of hominy had to supply the place of them; mush was frequently eaten with sweetened water, molasses, bear's oil, or the gravy of fried meat.
       Every family, besides a little garden for the few vegetables which they cultivated, had another small enclosure containing from half an acre to an acre, which they called a  truck patch, in which they raised corn for roasting ears, pumpkins, squashes, beans and potatoes. These, in the latter part of the summer and fall, were cooked with their pork, venison and bear meat for dinner, and made very wholesome and well tasted dishes. The standard dinner dish for every log rolling, house raising and harvest day was a pot pie, or what in other countries is called sea pie. This, besides answering for dinner, served for a part of the supper also. The remainder of it from dinner, being eaten with milk in the evening, after the conclusion of the labor of the day.
      In our whole display of furniture, the delft, china and silver were unknown. It did not then as now require contributions from the four quarters of the globe to furnish the breakfast table, viz: the silver from Mexico; the coffee from the West Indies; the tea from China, and the delft and porcelain from Europe or Asia.  Yet our homely fare, and unsightly cabins, and furniture, produced a hardy veteran race, who planted the first footsteps of society and civilization in the immense regions of the west. Inured to hardihood, bravery and labor from their early youth, they sustained with manly fortitude the fatigue of the chase, the campaign and scout, and with strong arms "turned the wilderness into fruitful fields" and have left to their descendants the rich inheritance of an immense empire blessed with peace and wealth…
    The introduction of delft ware was considered by many of the backwoods people as a culpable innovation.  It was too easily broken, and the plates of that ware dulled their scalping and clasp knives; tea ware was too small for men; they might do for women and children. Tea and coffee were only slops, which in the adage of the day "did not stick by the ribs." The idea was they were designed only for people of quality, who do not labor, or the sick. A genuine backwoodsman would have thought himself disgraced by showing a fondness for those slops. Indeed, many of them have, to this day, very little respect for them. 1

It is interesting to note Doddridge’s remarks concerning coffee and tea.  In essence it would appear as though the settlers primarily subsisted on only those things which they produced themselves.  From a re-enactor’s perspective, this might lead me not to carry those things in my pack if I’m portraying a backwoodsman from the areas to which Dr. Doddridge is referring.  Certainly one would imagine that these items must have been quite rare in the backcountry by the early days of the Revolution.  Real men drink… milk?  Who would’ve thought?

Christ, not man, is King!
Dale

1)   Joseph Doddridge, Notes On The Settlement And Indian Wars Of Virginia And Pennsylvania (Albany, NY: Joel Munsell, 1876), p. 137-38, 140.

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